We’ve a few hours before our train, the Konkan Kanya Express, leaves Margao so we decide to walk into town to look for some authentic Goan food. Margao’s not really somewhere you would want to stay for more than a day but it’s a nice enough place to visit for an afternoon. There’s a few nice colonial buildings, a great market and of course lots of beer.
It’s the market we stumble on first – a great big covered place with lots of stalls and even more people crammed into tiny alley ways. We stop at one of the places serving lemon soda for a refresher before hitting the meat section, which is usually a pretty grim scene in most Indian markets. This one is a pretty sedate affair with reasonably clean stalls and fresh looking meat. But the speciality seems to be the local Goan sausages. They look like mini chorizo and I cant help thinking I’ve gotta get some of those.
And get some I do at a place called Longhuino’s. Great name for a restaurant, takes a couple of attempts to say it though. We order Pork Sorpotel, Chorizo, Chicken xacuti, some rice and bread. The Sorpotel is really rich and spicy, with various bits of pig which I don’t mention to Andrea. The chicken is in thick cinnamony gravy with chunks of potato. Its good but the chicken is a bit bony and there’s not much meat. But the chorizo is lovely, quite spicy and with a bit of offal in the mix giving it a rich texture.
I finish off with a slice of bebinca, a kind of layered cake – it’s so easy to see the Portuguese influence on the food here. While eating my cake I’m thinking how much of struggle it’s been getting decent Goan food, it’s all been mediocre tourist crap. I’m so glad I’m not leaving without trying something memorable